The Valais and I - it was love at first sight. This is where some of the most beautiful excursion destinations in Switzerland come together, such as the famous Zermatt, idyllic Saas-Fee or the spectacular Émosson dam. For the first time, I slept here on a mountain in a romantic dome tent without electricity or running water, fed marmots up close from my hand and enjoyed breathtaking views of imposing four-thousand-metre peaks - including the famous Matterhorn.
However, nothing quite compares to coming back to a cozy and warm hotel room after the day’s adventures. Fortunately, Valais is teeming with amazing accommodations to choose from. If you're looking for the best hotel deals in this region, be sure to check Hotel deals in Switzerland at top-hotels-switzerland.com.
The Valais, Switzerland's driest canton, offers 300 days of sunshine a year in the south-west of the country. Here you can stroll through idyllic vineyards and enjoy the southern climate, ski on a glacier and relax in soothing thermal waters at the end of the day.
The accommodations in Valais are as diverse and unique as the region itself. Whether you're on a tight budget or seeking a slice of luxury during your stay, there's something to suit your preference. For a comprehensive list of the best hotels in Switzerland, visit tophotels.com.
In this post, I share with you which Swiss excursion destinations you shouldn't miss in Valais and my absolute favourite places!
Hi there, do you have some nuts for me?
Pure nature in the Vallée du Trient
The starting point of our road trip is the Trient Valley in the very west of the Valais, a good six hours away from Munich. Even the drive through the picturesque valley with its wonderful photo opportunities tempts us to make numerous stops - if only the road weren't so narrow. On the way to Le Châtelard, however, we only pass part of the valley, which actually winds its way from Martigny in the Lower Valais to Chamonix at the foot of the mighty Mont Blanc. Deep gorges, thundering waterfalls and wild nature without large resorts or hotels make this valley a unique natural paradise where you can enjoy wonderful hiking, cycling and simply spending time in the fresh mountain air.
View on the way to the Vallée du Trient
Excursion destinations in Switzerland: the Lac d'Èmosson reservoir
Switzerland's second-largest reservoir rises on the border with France. But it is not only the 190-metre-high dam that arouses amazement; the journey up here to 1,965 metres is also an experience. However, with the help of the following three railways you will easily overcome these considerable metres in height: one of the steepest double-cabin funiculars in the world (87% gradient), a panorama train and a mini funicular. The open panorama train, from which you can look down into the valley and, in fine weather, as far as Mont Blanc, is truly a fascinating attraction!
Where sheep used to graze next to a chapel, the gigantic pumped storage power station, including reservoir and wall, was built at a cost of 2 billion Swiss francs. For this, more than 30 kilometres of tunnels were built underground for the construction vehicles alone. What an extensive project! For hikers, the lake offers a wonderful backdrop for extended tours lasting from one to several days. One possibility, for example, is the 4-day Tour du Ruan, which starts and ends in Èmosson. The 5-day Tour de la Vallée du Trient also looks really tempting. While 80,000 people populate the Mont Blanc Tour each season, it's much quieter here - views of the legendary "Roof of Europe" included!
This panorama train takes you to the Èmosson dam
The area around the dam is ideal for hiking
Really idyllic up here at almost 2,000 metres
The rain was followed by a magical sunset
Spending the night at Vertic Camp with a view of the starry sky
The installed dome tents with their red roof rise like mushrooms from the forest floor. Amidst untouched nature and wild rhododendron, they invite you to spend an unusual night on the mountain - secluded from the world, as if in a cocoon, without electricity or running water. Thanks to the possibility of opening the roof, at night you experience magical moments snuggled up in your warm duvet with a clear view of a sky full of twinkling stars. And in the morning, when the birds welcome the day with a cheerful chirping concert, a romantic sunrise awaits you here in the middle of paradisiacal nature.
The VerticAlp Camp has only been in existence for two months and is located above the café, which you reach by the first funicular. However, it cannot be booked during the cold season, as the pods are not heated. But even though it's still quite warm during the day, the temperatures drop quite a bit at night. A double mattress and cosy warm bed linen nevertheless ensure a comfortable night's sleep. For breakfast, you can fortify yourself with local delicacies in the cosy VerticAlp Café.
Spend unique nights in the VerticAlp Camp
An open roof with a Plexiglas pane provides a view of the outside.
Good morning, you magical mountain world!
Incredibly idyllic, isn't it?
Breakfast at the VerticAlp Café
The Village des Branchés next to the camp (village of branches)
Excursion destinations in Switzerland: Italian flair in Sion
After the fantastic mountain scenery of the Vallée du Trient, Sion, the economic centre of the Valais, feels like you've been transported to another country: narrow alleys with small cafés and restaurants, ornately decorated balconies on the picturesque houses and green vineyards evoke a Mediterranean flair. As the sunniest city in Switzerland, Sion (Sitten) is an ideal place for growing wine, olives, figs, peaches and apricots. I explore the city as part of a Sion & Wine Tour, which includes tastings of three white and two red wines at unusual locations, some of which are not open to the public.
With 7,000 years of history, Sion is considered one of the oldest cities in Switzerland, where German is already increasingly spoken compared to the Vallée du Trient. On the spacious, popular market square we taste the first wine, a light Fondant (Schassler). Next stop is the Witches' Tower, the only remnant of the medieval town wall, which used to serve as a prison and was surrounded by a moat filled with water. In the attic we taste the second wine, a fine Johannisberg, together with the specific Croustilles de Sion (rye chips). There are 12,000 winegrowers in Valais and more than 54 grape varieties, but only one per cent of the wine is exported.
Picturesque Sion in the midst of vineyards
The grapes are ripe for picking
On the Sion & Wine Tour you taste different wines
Excursion destinations in Switzerland: pretty church in the centre of Sion
Italian flair in the alleys of Sion
The witches' tower used to be a prison
The ideal accompaniment to wine: Croustilles de Sion
Tasting Valais specialities
The excavations of the former Roman thermal baths under St. Theodore's Church are the setting for our next wine tasting. Petite Arvine, which has been grown in the Valais since 1602, tastes particularly good here. Lastly, we get to taste two red wines (Gamay & Humagne Rouge) at the La Verre a Pied wine shop, as well as a Valais platter from the La Grenette fromagerie across the street. A real treat that ends with a fine lunch including a delicious crème brûlée at La Croix Fédérale, Sion's oldest restaurant a few metres away.
Four castles surround the town of Sion in the Rhone Valley, built on hills jutting into the landscape. Valère, the oldest, also houses the oldest playable organ in the world, Tourbillon next to it a history museum and Majoria an art museum. It takes about 15 minutes to reach Valère, which offers a beautiful view over the city. Tourbillon is a 15-minute walk away. The Sion & Wine Tour always starts at 10 am, 3 pm or 5 pm in front of the tourist office and costs 59 francs.
Hmm, typical Valais plate
La Croix Fédérale is the oldest restaurant in town
Excursion destinations in Switzerland: the Château de Valère
The photogenic castle seen from the vineyards
Opposite, the Tourbillon Castle
Excursion destinations Switzerland: hot thermal springs in Leukerbad
A 45-minute drive from Sion, Leukerbad beckons with relaxation in soothing thermal waters. Every day, 3.9 million litres of hot water, containing mainly calcium sulphate minerals, bubble up here from 65 thermal springs at a temperature of 51 degrees Celsius. The 36-degree thermal water in the bathing pools is ideal for loosening muscles after a hiking tour or extensive skiing and is also said to help with rheumatological, neurological and accident-related ailments, as well as having a diuretic and anti-constipation effect. There are numerous public baths for this purpose, but also some hotels, such as Le Bristol, where we stayed, have a wellness area with its own thermal pool. Leukerbad is thus the largest thermal spa and wellness resort in the Alps.
You won't find big resorts and hotels here. Instead, you will find a considerable amount of Alpine romance in the form of dark wooden houses that house guesthouses, a handful of hotels and a rehabilitation clinic. Leukerbad has 1,000 inhabitants and about 11,000 guests. A stroll through the small town takes you past the Goethe House, where the famous poet once slept and where James Baldwin also spent two years. In winter, streets like Kirchstraße are completely free of ice due to the thermal water flowing underneath, and even some houses are heated with water from the springs. Fascinating, isn't it?
Picturesque Leukerbad - how I imagined a Swiss mountain village!
Impressive sunrise at the Hotel Bristol
Even more relaxation in the thermal waters of the Leukerbad Therme
Typical Swiss cheese fondue at the Hotel Bristol
This is where the famous poet Goethe once slept
A walk through Leukerbad also leads through the pretty Kirchgasse
200 km hiking network & the longest via ferrata in Switzerland
The surrounding mountains around Leukerbad are a paradise for hikers and climbing enthusiasts. We opt for the thermal springs footbridge, which is almost 600 metres long and about four metres high above the riverbed and leads through the impressive Dala Gorge. Accompanied by the roaring sound of the water, the path winds its way over a 21-metre suspension bridge to a 35-metre-high waterfall. At one point you can even pull up fresh, warm thermal water in a bucket by means of a rotary crank and wash your hands with it. It takes the water 40 years to get from the spring to the fountain. Hard to imagine, isn't it? At the top, both paths, left or right, lead back to the village.
The mountains around the Gemmi and Torrent offer other beautiful hikes. We take the mountain railway up to the Gemmi, from where we walk down to Lake Dauben. A nimble weasel accompanies us. On the way back, we get to watch two climbers climbing a rickety ladder hanging from the rock. There are 100 routes to choose from in the climbing areas around Leukerbad, including the longest via ferrata in Switzerland, which takes eight hours to complete. But fortunately there are also shorter variants. Maybe I'd dare to try one of those on my next visit.
With the mountain and bathing pass for 43 francs a day, you can combine being active in nature with subsequent relaxation in one of the baths in an optimal and inexpensive way. There is currently a special COVID offer at half price.
My tip: In the Galleria bakery you will find sinfully delicious cakes that you should definitely try. The Valais nut cake is a real treat, but the apricot cake is also divine.
The thermal spring footbridge leads over 600 metres through the Dala Gorge.
With the help of the bucket you can fetch up warm thermal water
Excursion destinations in Switzerland: the panorama from the Gemmi to Leukerbad
Destinations in Switzerland: unforgettable mountain moments in Zermatt
If you're travelling to Zermatt by car, you'll need to allow a little time, as the resort is completely car-free. In Täsch, park your car in the multi-storey car park, and from there take the train to Zermatt, which leaves every 20 minutes. Only 12 minutes later you reach the Zermatt train station and are already in the middle of the town centre. Even though Zermatt has become a world-famous town, it still has the special charm of a mountain village. Stroll through the Bahnhofstrasse, past shops, restaurants and nostalgic hotels, or along the Walk of Climb, where plaques embedded in the ground commemorate, for example, the first woman and the first man to climb the Matterhorn. At the end of the street you can catch your first glimpse of the imposing peak of the Matterhorn, weather permitting. Zermatt has only 5,500 inhabitants, but an incredible 30,000 guest beds. What a contrast!
The Hinterdorf, the oldest part of Zermatt, is absolutely worth a visit. Old barns and storehouses made of dark wood are lined up here. Most of them are no longer used today. It's a pity, because a night in such a rustic barn could really be very romantic and unique! At the end of Hinterdorfstrasse, a memorial fountain commemorates the legendary mountain guide Ulrich Inderbinen, who climbed the Matterhorn at 4,478 metres a spectacular 370 times - the last time at the age of 90! Interesting and somewhat oppressive at the same time is the small cemetery in the centre, where only climbers who died in accidents are buried. During the first ascent in 1865, four of the seven climbers died, three of whom lie here and one of whom has still not been found.
The peak of the Matterhorn still hides behind the clouds
Zermatt is completely car-free - only a few electric vehicles are allowed
The first woman to climb the Matterhorn on the Walk of Climb
Ulrich Inderbinen climbed the Matterhorn an incredible 370 times
Expedition base with stunning views of 29 four-thousand-metre peaks
The Gornergrat cable car, Europe's highest open-air rack railway, takes us up to 3,089 metres. As the altitude rises, the temperatures drop and nature becomes increasingly barren. Snow-covered peaks come within reach and even the Matterhorn now shows its best side, revealing its characteristic, striking peak. Once at the top, the overwhelming panorama of 29 four-thousand-metre peaks, the highest mountain in Switzerland (the Dufourspitze at 4,634 metres) and the third-longest glacier in the Alps (the Gorner Glacier with an area of 68 km²) simply leaves you speechless with amazement. A walk on the 360-degree loop is fascinating and perfect for immersing yourself in this almost mystical world of scree, ice, snow and silence.
Standing up here is already a highlight, but sleeping in a cosy bed at almost 3,100 metres makes this place an unforgettable experience. I have long dreamed of spending a night at the Kulmhotel Gornergrat, and now my dream has come true. All rooms face a mountain peak, either the Matterhorn or the Monte Rosa massif, allowing unique views no matter what time of day. In the evening, your taste buds are pampered with a fine 4-course menu - including a view of the Matterhorn, which unfolds a special magic in the last evening light. In the morning, you can fortify yourself at a rich breakfast buffet. External guests will find delicious snacks and refreshing drinks in the self-service restaurant next door.
Take the Gornergrat cable car up to the glacier
The Kulmhotel Gornergrat at 3,100 metres above sea level
Amazing view from the room made of local Swiss stone pine wood
Very close to the sky on the Gornergrat
Magical mountain paradise: Sunrise at Lake Riffel
Of course, the hotel's location is also ideal for exploring the glacier world of Zermatt. An absolute must for me: experiencing the sunrise at Riffelsee. And so the alarm clock rings early in the morning, we slip into our hiking gear and set off for the lake while it is still dark. We walk downhill for about three quarters of an hour until we reach the Riffelsee - by now already at dawn. Like in a picture book, the Matterhorn is reflected on the smooth surface of the lake. Gradually the sky turns pink and the first rays of sunlight hit the sharp-edged peak of the Matterhorn. A magical goosebump moment that we share only with two female photographers on the other side of the lake.
A few minutes later, dark clouds envelop the summit and the sky sinks into grey. The way back to the hotel turns out to be more strenuous than expected, because a few metres of altitude up here feel like climbing a four-thousand-metre peak due to the thin air. But the memory of this very special sunrise at 2,770 metres will stay with me forever!
At Riffelsee shortly before the sun rises
These colours - this reflection
A little later the Matterhorn disappeared into the clouds
Idyllic Hiking around the Gornergrat
Various beautiful paths invite you to explore around the Gornergrat, and even downhill into the valley you have the choice between different routes. We decide on the 5-lake trail, which we shorten somewhat due to the weather (rain & grey skies). From Riffelalp, the first section leads through green forests to Grünsee and then to the turquoise Moosjisee. Other lakes that we skipped and in which the Matterhorn is reflected (when it is visible) are Lake Stelli, Lake Grindji and Lake Lei.
Picturesque huts along the way offer the opportunity to stop for a bite to eat. We stop at Chez Vrony, the most beautiful mountain hut I have ever seen. So unexpectedly modern and yet cosy, with a large terrace, pleasant music and unbelievably delicious food, it's the most wonderful way to spend a break. And, here too, the fascinating landmark of Switzerland looks down on you.
We pass a herd of cuddly Valais black-nosed sheep - which of course I can't pass without stroking them extensively - and head from here towards Findeln and Findelbach respectively, where we cover the last part of the journey on the Gornergrat Bahn. A one-way trip from Zermatt to the Gornergrat costs 51 Swiss francs, including the return 102 Swiss francs.
The 5-Lakes Trail leads through lush forests.
Pure mountain idyll
The rustic Chez Vrony is located in the house on the right.
Mountain hut food at the highest level: berry crème brûlée
The sweet Valais black-nosed sheep
Excursion destinations Switzerland: Mountain village romance & glacier worlds in Saas-Fee
We choose Saas-Fee as the last stop on our journey through the canton of Valais. From Zermatt, the drive is actually only once over the mountain, but it takes three quarters of an hour, as you have to drive around the mountain. Saas-Fee is also car-free, but you can easily park your car in the multi-storey car park on the edge of town and then walk into the town centre. Compared to Zermatt, it's much quieter here. There are 1,600 inhabitants and "only" 13,000 guest beds. A walk through Saas-Fee, as in Zermatt, leads to an old village centre, which also looks somewhat abandoned here, but is no less beautiful.
By the way, "Last Christmas" by Wham! was filmed in Saas-Fee.
Varied hiking and cuddling with marmots
Around Saas-Fee, numerous paths invite you to go for walks and hikes. Climbing fans also get their money's worth here, because the Gorge Alpine begins in Saas-Fee, a via ferrata that leads through a breathtaking rock gorge on pendulum seats, ladders and suspension bridges.
We decide to hike up to Hannig via the pretty Café Alpenblick. It is more comfortable to take the gondola, but then you miss the enchanting larch and pine forest through which the path leads. Once you have reached the top of the Sonnenberg Hannig, you will be rewarded with a fantastic view of the glacier world of Saas-Fee. The hike takes about an hour.
Various paths then lead back down to the valley, including one through the Stafelwald. While cows graze peacefully in the meadow, incredibly cute, trusting marmots live underground. I would never have thought that they would actually eat out of my hand, but that's exactly what happens. Soon two of these rodents venture out of their holes and spend minutes shovelling the nuts into themselves from my hand with relish - ok, hibernation is imminent! I will probably never forget this unique moment either. I was so surprised and happy that I even got moist eyes!
The Alpenblick Panorama Restaurant and Café on the way to the Hannig summit
Isn't it cuddly?
Excursion destinations in Switzerland: Three records on the Allalin glacier
Three records come together on the Allalin glacier. Three cable cars take you up the mountain, with the last section being covered by the Metro Alpin, the highest underground funicular in the world. Once you reach the top at 3,500 metres, you feel like you're in another world on the Mittelallalin. No matter what time of year, people ski up here. It seems a bit strange when winter is actually still to come. Only a few metres from the exit of the cable car, the world's largest ice pavilion entices you with exciting insights into the world of ice, which is already 2,000 years old. Imaginative sculptures or an ice slide also provide amazement and fun in the 5,500 m³ area.
Two floors above, the world's highest revolving restaurant treats its guests to Valais and international cuisine directly on the ski slope. In one hour, the restaurant rotates once around its own axis, which actually gives me a slightly queasy, dizzy feeling at first. But the view of the gigantic mountains is overwhelming! But since the weather changes very quickly up here, you could probably sit there all day and always discover something new. On my next visit to Saas-Fee, I definitely want to climb the Allalin, my first four-thousand-metre peak, together with a mountain guide.
Restaurant & Hotel Tip Saas-Fee
If you're not in the mood for Swiss cuisine but rather for a delicious pizza, then head to the newly renovated Restaurant Da Rasso. If you choose a dough with charcoal, you can expect an unusual visual experience. I didn't really notice a difference in taste compared to the usual light pizza, but the charcoal supposedly makes the pizza less heavy on the stomach. If you're in the mood for something lighter, tasty bowls are also on offer here.
The Sunstar Saas-Fee is located in the centre of the village and is the ideal starting point for many explorations. A unique gem is the room 1893, furnished as in the founding year of the hotel with lots of wood, nostalgic fittings in the bathroom and loving details. Here you can simply feel at home and spend wonderful nights!
The Allalin Glacier in the first sunlight
The largest ice pavilion in the world is located here in Saas-Fee.
What you can conjure up out of ice
Lunch with a view in the world's highest revolving restaurant
Switzerland's excursion destinations: soul food at 3,500 metres
Pizza with charcoal dough in the evening at Da Rasso
The cosy room 1893 in the Sunstar Hotel
Bye Saas-Fee, bye Valais, we will definitely meet again!
Do you know Valais and have more tips for this canton or for other beautiful destinations in Switzerland? Feel free to leave us a comment on our travel blog, we'd love to hear from you. And if you don't know the region yet, I hope that my post has whetted your appetite to travel to this idyllic region. It's very worth it, I definitely want to go back again with more time!
A Digital Detox Adventure in the beautiful Bergell in Graubünden
Maybe you'd like to extend your holiday in Switzerland by a few days and explore another canton? We highly recommend the beautiful and idyllic Bergell in Graubünden, where wonderful hiking trails such as the Sentiero Panoramico, charming villages such as Vicosoprano, Soglio and Coltura, as well as breathtakingly beautiful mountain panoramas such as at the Albigna hut and the Albigna reservoir await you. In Bergell you can also embark on an adventure of a very special kind: Stay completely offline for the time of your stay, leave your mobile phone at the hotel and simply enjoy the here and now without the constant distraction of the internet. Have you ever tried something like this?
Besides a visit to Soglio, one of the most picturesque mountain villages in the region, built on a sunny terrace directly on a mountainside, where you can also marvel at an ancient, giant sequoia tree in the gardens of the Palazzo Salis, another highlight of the region is its special cuisine, as many dishes in Bergell are inspired by the chestnut. Especially the forbidden delicious chestnut cake is not to be missed! You can find all our tips for the beautiful Bergell here:
→ Digital Detox: the most beautiful places & activities in Bergell in Graubünden.
Dreamlike sunset at the Albigna hut
The enchanting village of Vicosoprano
Completely switch off while hiking from village to village